As the weather continues to cool and the sun sinks lower earlier, I know many of us feel the pull to a tropical destination. Even me! To be honest, I’m not a beach person. I burn easily, and have many tattoos that I’d rather not destroy by sitting in the sun. Not to mention I can’t swim very well. In fact, I was once rescued from drowning by the San Diego Lifeguard (very Baywatch moment). Thank you very handsome man whose name I never got. But there are still plenty of tropical destinations that have my needs list checked off. However, one seems to dominate the category for me. Interesting landscape, local culture & history, agriculture, beverage scene, markets, recreation, adventure, mystique, volcano, fishing villages, cacao, rum distillery. Check check check. I’m talking about Saint Lucia! And when it comes to the West Indies, Saint Lucia is as good as it gets.
I was fortunate enough to guest chef at the Cap Maison, on the far north end of the island a few years ago. A few months prior to my guest chef stay, I was just a regular guest with my girlfriend Sam, trying to give her a beach experience. This was the closest I’ve come to a “vacation”. But I don’t relax well and soon began exploring the property, befriending the sommelier and staff. We hit it off on multiple occasions and they eventually invited me back to guest chef for a week.
During my two visits I was able to take a boat trip to the Pitons, hung out at the sulphur springs, took a jeep tour of the fruit plantations, hiked to a waterfall, walked the market in Castries and Soufriere (explore Soufriere), watched cassava cake get made, snorkeled, drank rum punch, ate grilled lobster, checked out the Gros Islet street party and even snuck in some blackjack at the local casino.
Saint Lucia is a real place. It has some grit. It’s not Disney, and that’s why I love it. There’s tons of history. Rich culture and hospitality. A DIY attitude and a slower, celebratory pace of life that comes from people who have lived next to a volcano and through government turmoil for centuries.
Life is short. Enjoy it. I’ve traveled through the Bahamas, Cozumel, Cancun, Playa, Cayman Islands, Florida Keys, Turks & Caicos and I would put Saint Lucia above them all for a tropical destination. As a chef, I was constantly engaged and stimulated in everything I did.
Recently, I was able to sit down and chat with the incredible Nina Compton as she dined at Mabel Gray. We discussed Saint Lucia at length. Her family is legendary on the island and her lineage informs so much of her cooking and hospitality. You really can’t mention Saint Lucia and food and NOT talk about Nina Compton. She’s the forever ambassador (see this comprehensive article, full of recommendations for visiting the island). Her sister also runs retreats to the Caribbean and is fundraising to open the first National Museum on the island.
Traveling there
Unfortunately, there isn’t a direct flight from DTW. So you’ll be laying over somewhere. Most likely Atlanta. And once you land, you’ll be on the far south side of the island. So if you’re staying on the north side, you can expect a couple hour windy road drive. But if you’re like me, just tip your driver to stop a couple times for snacks and drinks. There’s plenty of roadside stands and little shops to grab a bite or a rum punch. These aren’t convenience stores. Some are people’s houses or fruit stands. But I like it like that. If the drive isn’t your thing you can always book a helicopter.
I wouldn’t recommend renting a car. The roads are windy, the alcohol is plenty and parking can be a little hectic. The good news is there’s plenty of private drivers, taxis, yacht rides, jeep tours, shuttle buses and helicopters to get you around.
Lodging
There’s a little bit of every option on the island. Airbnb’s. Sandals resorts. Adults-only resorts. Cozy B&B’s. Or crazy high end honeymoon destinations. Think: Jade Mountain.
I chose Cap Maison because of its reputation for food and beverage. They have two restaurants on-site and a nice wine cellar. I can’t recommend it enough. The rooms were spacious and there’s some variety in scale based on your budget and group size. You can book many (family-friendly!) activities through the resort itself, including boating, snorkeling, and whale watching. In the future though, I wouldn’t mind staying closer to Soufriere to experience a different part of the island for a longer period. Maybe this highly recommended resort tucked into a cacao farm.
When to go
December to April will secure you the best and driest weather. But also the higher prices. You can always roll the dice on a shoulder season, but I’d be careful about booking near hurricane season for very obvious reasons.
All in all, Saint Lucia is a top tier destination for those who love warm weather and the beach but want a little more out of their day than laying around. I was bored to tears in Turks & Caicos but they do have the best water and a dog shelter you can walk a pup for a few hours from. We had a fun group too, but I don’t think I’d ever return. Saint Lucia, I dream about.
Bring the West Indies to you
Check out The Jamaican Pot or Yum Village if you’re in or around Detroit.
Listen to my favorite Proteje album.
Make a Rum Punch with Saint Lucian rum.
Watch White Squall or Pirates of the Caribbean: The Curse of the Black Pearl (filmed in St. Lucia).
Read about Nina’s incredible father who led Saint Lucia to independence.