A history
As a born and raised Michigander, my love of the great north is not a singular experience. It’s in our DNA. Whether your family worked for the big three and bought property post WW2 in Traverse or Alpena or Gaylord or West Branch or you took family trips to Mackinac Island, you may have spent some time in the woods of northern Michigan.
My grandfather, John Rigato (or “Nonno” as we called him) had 80 acres and a tiny cabin in Cummins on Gilcrest Creek. It was the most magical place in my childhood. We would dig the bed of the creek to find the natural spring and fill water pitchers for the cabin. He would smoke cigars and show us the flammability of white birch bark, even when wet. (Years later, I’d learn of its edibility too.) My Nonno died when I was 14 and the cabin was sold long before I would have the means to buy it. I did walk the property some years ago, as it was listed for sale. The cabin was in rough shape, the property littered with tchotchkes and the asking price too steep. I sadly let the dream die and made my peace with not having that land.
I would also spend time in Harrisville with my Uncle Jimmy Rigato at his cabin next to Sturgeon Point Lighthouse, right on Lake Huron. More cigar aromas, woodland walks, tall tales and John Wayne movies set against the lapping of Huron’s waves on the shore.
In my teens, I would attend YMCA summer camps. Ohiyesa and Nissokone. Formative experiences of socializing with a diverse community of kids from all over the world. Campfires, Walkman’s packed with Jewel and Sarah McLachlan, holding hands in the dark. You see, I was an Arts & Crafts kid. While my bunk mates would all be at athletics or water sports, I was painting with the girls cabin making boondoggle, writing them poetry and falling in love (usually with all of them).
By the time I was able to drive, I dabbled in exploring the UP. First: Whitefish Point. Then: Tahquamenon. Then eventually all the way to Copper Harbor. This was Mapquest/Atlas driving and I had a blast going off grid, exploring so many new places. The first time I saw the Keweenaw at 21, I felt that too familiar rush of adventure. The same I felt on my Nonno’s 80-acres or my Uncle Jimmy’s or in the woods at summer camp. It was intoxicating and emotional. I’ve returned to the Keweenaw almost every year since.
In July of 2020, I was in a whirlwind of running a food business during COVID and I had some cash from all of the refunds of my canceled trips. One day, walking my dog Chandler in Eagle River, I came across a cork board post that said “1870s Farmhouse for sale. 2 acres. $70,000.” I called the number. Walked the house. And bought it with a mortgage under the condition that I immediately upgrade the roof, siding and furnace in order for it to be insured. Five years later, it’s one of the best decisions I’ve ever made.
Owning this cabin in Eagle River has given me good reason to drive the length of the state many times through many seasons for the last five years. I have driven in white out snow and -20°F. I have seen moose and bear and wolves. Sunrises and sunsets. Climbed waterfalls, jumped in Lake superior in my underwear (more than once) and eaten many delicious (and not delicious) meals along the way. This post is all about the great Michigan road trip. Destination UP. And the UP’s UP: Keweenaw.
The drive
I assume most people heading to the UP are driving. It is a very large land mass with zero mass transit options and very limited fly in options. I would give almost anything for a weekly flight from DTW to Hancock airport. But the closest airport you can get reliable flights to is Marquette. Which isn’t bad, but you definitely have to rent a car if you want to explore at all. Alas, this guide is a road trip.
In the summer, I will often leave my house early in the morning and drive straight through with different stops for lunch, coffee, groceries, dog breaks (if they’re with me) and occasionally a little sightseeing, especially if I have a friend with me.
In the winter, I leave in the late afternoon and head straight to St. Ignace. I like to stay at the Budget Host Inn because it’s dog friendly, clean, cheap and within walking distance to what seems to be the only open bar in town in the off-season, The Driftwood.
If you’re dogless, there is a casino in St. Ignace that may help you kill time. I like to break the winter drive in half because late night winter driving is extremely dangerous. Low cell service, subzero temperatures, potential for deer in the road, whiteout conditions, snowdrifts and so on. Winter time is gorgeous and very special in the Keweenaw. But drive slow and careful and plan your route accordingly.
Heading north from Detroit I rarely stop before the bridge, unless I have my dogs or need gas. I do like timing out lunch at Scalawag’s in Mackinaw City. It’s fresh fish, simply prepared and dog friendly. 🐕 I try to time out walking in the second they open. Not only do I avoid the lunch rush but it keeps me on track for the rest of the drive. I like pulling into the Keweenaw in daylight. If I don’t hit Scalawag’s I will see how busy Clyde’s is in St Ignace. Clyde’s is a great roadside burger but it can get VERY busy in peak season.
I usually take US-2 from 75 to 77 and head north through Seney to then head west on M28. You’ll pass through Blaney Park which has some really cool antique shops which are worth a stop. Seney is a nature preserve and is worth a little bird watching if you have time. Famous for Michigan’s powerhouse loon couple. This route bypasses some very cool parts of the UP though. If Keweenaw is your primary destination, do this. If you’re doing an all out road trip and have time to kill I suggest doing a Soo Locks, Tahquamenon falls, Whitefish Point/coastal drive to Grand Marais then heading west to Pictured Rocks route to get to Munising. If you did all of this, add at least 2-3 days to this itinerary. Tahquamenon has a brewery and tons of trails and nature to see. The lower falls have some really specials areas you can walk including out into the river. Can’t recommend it enough. Grand Marais is as cute as a little town gets. And Pictured Rocks is best seen by renting a kayak and paddling out. If you have time and the weather is cooperating I would regard this as one of the coolest experiences in the entire state.
Munising is seeing a huge increase in tourism. For one, the summer weather has been hot enough to swim the lake. Which is crazy. And Grand Island keeps the bay relatively calm. Not to mention Grand Island has seen an increase in people hiking and exploring it. Tracey’s at Roam Inn is a great place to stay and eat. Chef Jason Biega does great work. They also own Gallery Coffee and Eh, Burger in town. Both great places to visit as well. Cap’n Ron’s is a very famous seasonal fish shack in town. Cap’n Ron passed away a few years ago. He was a 5th generation fisherman who was featured on the Uncharted episode with Gordon Ramsay.
If the shack is open, definitely visit. With the shoreline, Grand Island, Pictured Rocks, Tracey’s and a proper burger and coffee, Munising is arguably very deserving of its top destination status.
If you’re looking to explore some small towns of the area, you can swing by the Chatham Pub and tell Laura we sent you.
Heading west to Marquette, you’re now entering the biggest city in the UP. Home of Northern Michigan university and the beautiful Presque Isle park where you can jump off the famous Black Rocks.
Marquette has a great co-op market. Natural foods can be hard to find in stores in the UP and this market is a fantastic resource. Highly recommend stocking up here. I like to stay at The Landmark Inn if I’m staying in town. Northland Gastropub in the hotel makes a stiff drink and the place has some nice charm. I usually hit up 3rd Street Bagel when I’m in town. I actually like ordering online when I’m heading home from the Keweenaw and swooping in and grabbing a smoothie and bagel sando for the road. Delft has good cocktails, and the Wooden Nickel is a 2am dive bar which is always nice. There’s a new joint in town called Slabz, from the Tracey’s folks. I haven’t been yet, but they’re a trustworthy group. Let me know if you check them out.
Ishpeming and Negaunee are nearby towns to Marquette. I recently discovered a great coffee shop in Negaunee that is well worth the detour. Check out the old school pizza parlor in Ishpeming, Congress Pizza.
Fun fact: Marquette just opened its first Texas Roadhouse. I’m a notorious lush for some TRH so don’t be shy about rolling in.
The drive from Marquette to Houghton isn’t the most exciting stretch and I usually barrel through. However, consider stopping at Canyon Falls about 10 miles south of L’anse - considered “Michigan’s Grand Canyon” - it’s a very cool area to hike and explore. Skippers in L’anse does a nice job and has a great view. Otherwise, I usually wait to stop until Houghton. Home to Michigan Tech and a beautiful downtown Houghton has a few gems. Catch a Huskies game if you’re there in the season. The Vault Hotel is the most ambitious opening in years. I spend most of my time in Houghton at Keweenaw Brewing Company: a bring your own food beer hall that has cheap tasty drinks, some old time charm and a pretty cool patio overlooking the canal. Suomi is a 40-year old Finnish inspired breakfast spot worth a visit. Houghton also has a Walmart and a Taco Bell should you need either 🤷♂️.
Across the bridge (the world’s heaviest suspension bridge!) in Hancock was one of my favorite places in the UP: Milly’s, Detroit-style pizza. They’re on an extended hiatus currently but rumor has it they’re re-opening with a liquor license so keep an eye out for that!
Hancock has a few old bars with Italian names but don’t expect to find authentic Italian food. It’s more of a relic of the Italian immigrants who moved in during the copper mining boom. However, it’s fun to walk Quincy Street and grab a beer at a number of old joints and just be a tourist. Probably to the annoyance of the local bartender. Hancock also has a co-op. I’m a member there and they just recently expanded into a new space. This place is a lifeline for the area. Highly recommend stopping and stocking up.
New to Hancock and right on the canal is Small Craft bar. This is owned by a couple, Lynn and Jason Makela, who are doing incredible things in the Keweenaw, especially their cabins and saunas. I cannot stress enough, book your whole trip around staying at Fresh Coast and their saunas. Follow them on instagram and read about them in the NYT.
Calumet has my favorite coffee and breakfast spot in the UP. I don’t have anywhere to recommend staying in Calumet but the coffee shop, dive bars and car wash give you plenty of reasons to stop in. Luigi’s, Eva’s Hideaway, Shute’s are all great dives in Calumet. There’s also a rumor that the best pasty in the Keweenaw is in Calumet. Across the street is the small town of Laurium. Miner’s Cafe is a cute little diner with nice breakfast options.
There’s plenty of off the beaten path dives in the Keweenaw. Many of them serve as outposts for snowmobilers. Drift Inn, Dreamland, Loading Zone II, Gay Bar (in Gay, Michigan. Warning: plenty of gay puns and merch) are a few of my fav’s.
My cabin is in Phoenix. But Phoenix is technically a ghost town. Although, The Phoenix General Store is a must-stop time machine visit.
So I basically have a cabin in Eagle River. Eagle River is my favorite corner of the Keweenaw. Reason number one is The Fitz. This is one of my favorite restaurants in Michigan. I am biased as Mike, the owner, is a longtime friend and travel buddy. I recently took him to NYC and Champagne. Needless to say, The Fitz has a few champagnes on the menu now. Their food is delicious and their cocktail program is top-notch. The sunset view right on the water is unbeatable and the only 2 times I’ve seen the northern lights were on their patio. Mabel does a pop up there every Labor Day Monday (make your reservation now) AND they have 5 recently renovated and very nice rooms for rent. The Fitz is an American treasure and its value to the Keweenaw cannot be overstated. When I’m in town I basically eat there every night.
Mike also recently bought and renovated Cliff View Bar on US-41. This has long been one of my favorite bars in the Keweenaw. It sits right on the ORV trail which is perfect for side by sides in the summer and snowmobiles in the winter. Or just pulling in off the main road. A real roadhouse if you will. They’re rolling out a food menu soon, too. Don’t miss.
Down M-26, towards Eagle Harbor, is a world famous monk monastery perched on a cliff overlooking the Great Sand Bay of Lake Superior. These guys barely need an introduction nowadays, but the Jampot is also an American treasure. Baked goods, coffee roasting and their incredible homemade jams make them a mega destination. You can hike Jacob’s Falls right next to Jampot as well. I love to buy the wild fruit jams showcasing the magic of the forests but can attest that everything there is special.
Great Sand Bay is also worth exploring and jumping in the lake if the weather is right. I also like watching storms roll in from this beach.
Eagle Harbor has a beautiful bay and beach. There’s only a couple businesses in town and the Eagle Harbor Inn has been a staple of the area with a full liquor license, pizza and rooms for rent. I like riding the ORV trails to Eagle Harbor and walking the old cemetery. It’s a beautiful and slightly eerie setup. But I love it. Heading towards Copper Harbor you have what I consider to be best drive of the trip. Both M26 and US-41 into Copper Harbor are absolutely gorgeous. Not to mention Brockway Mountain Drive, should you take that route (which you should at least once). Fresh Coast cabins are off M26. They have a cute little gift shop you should stop at if you didn’t take my advice and book a room there.
Copper Harbor is out of a movie. I love it. Keweenaw Adventure Company and the incredible mountain biking trail system are world class. This was what kept me coming back for years. I highly recommend renting a bike and shuttle pass and booking a kayak tour with them. Make this a big part of your trip. If you are not too experienced, hire a guide to take you out for the first day. Either way, Keweenaw Adventure Company is one of the best things about the Upper Peninsula. The food scene in the Keweenaw seems to be changing all the time. It’s a tough place to run a business so always check business hours and if they’re closed (temporarily or permanently) before planning on going. But Mariner’s is an institution as is Harbor Haus. The view at Harbor Haus is pretty fantastic. Brickside Brewery is a great place to grab a pint after a ride down the mountain biking trail and sometimes has a fish taco food truck outside. There are a few different bars and spots to eat at in Copper Harbor. But if you have a group of people and want to go to places for dinner, I recommend reservations always.
If you have a 4x4 vehicle you can head out to High Rock Bay from Copper Harbor for a pretty epic viewpoint. Otherwise, drive carefully to Horseshoe Harbor for a hike to the shore and explore the ancient geology of the area. Hunter’s Point is also an easy 2-mile hike right by the marina. I like to walk my dogs on this trail.
If you’re staying in the area and brought a kayak, my favorite lake is Lake Medora. Such a beautiful area. Gratiot Lake is also great and has a boat launch if you like to fish and have access to a boat. If you want to fish on the big lake I recommend booking with Travis at Keweenaw Charters. He’s the best! I’ve done it a few times.
Bare Bluff is a famous hike in the area as is Montreal Falls.
Estivant Pines showcase some of the old growth pines of Michigan and make for a pretty easy hike close to downtown Copper Harbor.
Another institution up there is Mt. Bohemia: a very famous ski resort that specializes in backwoods rustic skiing and snowboarding opportunities. Not for the amateur. But their lodging, spa retreat and food/beverage footprint continues to grow and makes visiting without skiing plans still worth it. Follow them on social and keep an eye on what they’re up to.
In general, you should plan your trip around food. Because it is hard to find reliable delicious food in the Upper Peninsula. There are wonderful pockets of surprises and delicious things, but you have to work for it. Just like you have to climb a hill for a beautiful view, nothing comes easy up there. But that’s what makes it special. I hope you find the beauty and joy in the outer reaches of Michigan.
Catch a thunderstorm up there and you’ll get all the feels. You have to jump in Superior. Purify yourself. Study her moods. Every day is different. She puts off an energy that I’ve never found a supplement to. So powerful, mysterious, beautiful, relentless. The largest body of freshwater by surface area on Earth. You can find glacial copper in some shops up there. It’s copper that was smoothed by the weight and pressure of the retreating glacier. It’s beautiful and worthy of your mantle. The Ojibwe said Superior was protected by Nanabijou, the sleeping giant. Have fun, be safe. Many of the hiking trails are poorly marked. Let people know where you’re going if you’re going on any long or hard hikes.
And lastly, we are a two-peninsula state, (three if you actually count the Keweenaw). I suggest you explore it all!
Google Map
Here is our Google map to accompany you on your travels. If you can’t get away, we love Barb’s Pizza Pasties in Clawson and Keweenaw Brewery beers are widely distributed.
Thank you Chef! A great guide for a special place. A second vote for Lynn and Jason’s spots in both Hancock and up at Fresh Coast; we stayed last Fall and it’s well worth it. Plus it’s not too far from the Fitz which, as chef said, is worth the trip alone. There is also the Jam Lady in Eagle River for Thimbleberry Jam and Chow Chow!
Love this guide. Having made the drive and been lucky enough to see your little slice of heaven in Eagle River, this guide brings me back to all the extraordinary and beautifully simple things about the Keweenaw. ❤️🌲☀️🌊