I am currently VERY obsessed with Japan. I first went to Japan in 2022 on a work visa from my friend, Bud, who is the president of Fender Asia. It was July. It was very hot, masks were expected to be worn nearly everywhere, tourism was non-existent and Bud and I would sometimes be the only two customers in a restaurant.
It’s a tall ask anywhere else in the world to have a mind-blowing trip with those limitations….but we were in Tokyo and I fell in love. Hard. Bud hosted me for a week of absolute magic. Ramen. Onsens. Tea. Highballs. Bars. Train stations. Omakase (Japanese for ‘I leave it up to you’). Shabu-shabu (a Japanese hotpot dish). High-end hotels. Japanese breakfasts. I had traveled quite a bit up to this point but Japan, especially Tokyo, hit different. I have since returned four more times and explored Shiga, Niigata, Atami, Kyoto, Osaka, Yokohama, Sapporo, and of course deeper layers of Tokyo. If it’s your first time in Japan, I recommend at least 8 days up to 2 weeks (or more!). Tokyo is unbelievable and has a little bit of everywhere in Japan represented, which can really be a time saver if you only want to stay in the city. There are temples, shrines, museums, and cuisines from all over the country. So many travelers flock to Kyoto in the middle of their Tokyo trips, which is a really lovely place, but I find time in Tokyo better spent. Japan hosted over 35 million tourists in 2024, which is a record. Wild!
Flights
There is a daily Delta direct from Detroit to Haneda (which is a real perk of the auto industry if you ask me). Chicago has direct flights on United as well. It’s about a 13.5 hour flight there and a little quicker on the way home. I’ve spent around $2k per ticket each time but have seen $1200-$1500 occasionally. The SkyLounge in Haneda is pretty great with Asahi on draft, a mini ramen station, and beef curry. The Detroit Delta SkyLounge continues to be a major food blackhole with the coney cart being the only edible thing they offer, other than the bar olive in your martini.
Lodging
Tokyo is a hotel city. There’s a wide variety of options from very affordable “capsule” hotels to Four Seasons and the Mandarin Orient. Capsule/Pod Hotels are kind of crazy and really make sense for the young or solo traveler. Many of the common areas of these hotels are great for meeting new friends, catching up on work with free WiFi or enjoying some free snacks and drinks. The sleeping arrangement is very tight and cozy. I suggest a little research before blindly booking one. The higher-end hotels have unbelievable hospitality (truly some of the most decadent service in the world) but can cost four figures a night minimum.
There are tons of mid-tier hotel options. I prefer to book near a fun neighborhood, making sure the hotel has a good bar and a well-reviewed and extensive breakfast buffet. I feel like this is the only country where I utter those words (lol).
Aoyama Grand is in the Shibuya neighborhood and is pretty hip and modern. There are multiple dining options, but not the old-school buffet I prefer. It’s still a great option and the location is stellar. New Otani Tokyo is near Akasaka — one of my favorite neighborhoods packed full of soba shops, small bars, coffee, katsu, curry, and barber shops. New Otani has possibly the best breakfast buffet around. Make sure you go to Satsuki and stay in The Main. There’s a Garden Tower option at the hotel; it’s a notch below The Main and it doesn’t include breakfast at Satsuki, which is the far superior breakfast restaurant. New Otani is very old-school Japan and feels like a time machine to the 1980s heyday of Japan’s economic boom. Park Hyatt is also famous but under renovation right now, slated to re-open in October of 2025. The rooftop restaurant has a pretty epic Wagyu selection and was made famous to Americans from the film Lost in Translation.
There are SO MANY hotel options when you look at Tokyo. I recommend staying near Shinjuku if you like nightlife and underbelly city vibes. Stay near Shibuya if you like shopping, uptown vibes, and high-end restaurants. Stay near Akasaka if you like more of a “livable neighborhood” vibe with great food and bars and fewer tourists than Shibuya. Ginza is ideal if you’re ballin’ and like designer brand shit, and Akihabara if you’re an anime-loving gamer who views Tokyo as a portal to another world.
Either way, when booking a hotel I like to use hotels.com and filter 9+, breakfast included, bar at the hotel when selecting. If staying for more than a week, take full advantage of the laundry service at the hotel. I even get haircuts and beard trims when I’m there. Everything seems better in Tokyo! I also try to make sure the hotel has a concierge. This is crucial when trying to book weird things like haircuts, foot massages, or bar reservations that may require talking on the phone to a business.
Now, if you’re looking for a truly authentic experience you can stay at a Ryokan — an authentic “inn” that has tatami-matted rooms and oftentimes communal hot spring hot tubs and dinner service. I like the ones that have the private onsen tubs in the room as I’m heavily tattooed and tattoos are not allowed in most public bath areas (pools, hot tubs, hot springs, etc). I’ve stayed here, here and here. All three were fantastic with top tier dining and hospitality. Nazuna Kyoto Nijo-jo is in Kyoto, should your heart be set on that destination. Keep in mind, when booking these rooms, it’s best to not venture out. Get your money’s worth and soak in the tub all day. The rooms are not cheap and you are paying for the experience. Drink tea, hang out with your sweetheart, and only leave the room to eat dinner in the hotel. You’ll probably be wearing the pajamas and sandals they provide. I like to log-in to YouTube on the TV in the room and play Sade music videos on repeat.
Transportation
Cabs are everywhere. They’re not particularly cheap. Trains will be the economical option for sure. The subway and regional trains in Japan are efficient, incredibly punctual, clean, safe, and fast. There is a ton of information out there about the train systems and I’m not expert level. Give yourself plenty of time at the train station to figure out the routes and buy a JR Pass if you’re going to be a frequent rider. If you’re overwhelmed, there are little kiosks where you can buy a ticket from a human who most likely speaks English. I have even gone the day before to talk to an agent and figure out my train ride to another city just so I could rest easy knowing my next day was planned. If taking the Shinkansen (bullet train) for longer than 45 minutes I highly recommend buying a bento box and a beer (or tea) for the ride. I’ve never met a train station bento I didn’t like, but the katsu sandwich is always a pro move. There are bentos for sale at little stands and some bigger stores at almost every major station.
When riding trains it’s important to silence your phone, speak in a hushed voice and keep your shit together. This is my favorite part of Japan. There is a social contract to behave and be mindful of greater society everywhere you go. Everyone carries a bag to make sure they can take whatever garbage they create. Litter is rare (except in party districts like Shinjuku) and Tokyo is a wildly quiet city.
Back to cabs. Rule number 1: don’t touch the door. They’re hydraulic and the driver controls them. Wait for them to open getting in and out. Rule number 2: have your address pulled up on your phone. In Japanese is even better. You’ll probably just pass your phone to the driver. Rule number 3: buckle up. It’s courteous and they’re probably going to ask you to anyway. Rule number 4: don’t talk on the phone loudly or be too disruptive. Taxi drivers are very professional. They wear suits and take pride in their work. Respect is very important in Japan. Rule number 5: I tip a little. It’s not “expected,” but it’s always appreciated. I love taking taxis and prefer them for short trips. But if heading across town or further, the train is king.
Indulging
In general, when it comes to food, try to eat: soba, ramen, katsu, wagyu, sushi, yakitori, pizza, gyoza, and shabu-shabu. The variety is endless. But these are the big ones to me. Oh, and ice cream! The ice cream is so good. I’m a big fan of matcha ice creams. Great food is easy to find. Don't over-obsess about where. Just ask your concierge or your local bartender where to go next. Typically, one awesome place knows where to find ten more. It’s a labyrinth and your first trip to Tokyo is just a taste. You’ll find yourself dreaming about your return.
Sushi Yuu. Omakase. My friend Daisuke owns it. It’s a fantastic sushi experience. Daisuke speaks English and is very kind to foreigners while still offering a very authentic experience. Sushi Yuu has been in Eater Best 38 Restaurants of Tokyo for a while and you’ll see why when you go.
I love the sleazy Kabukicho Shinjuku neighborhood. It’s a red light district and can get a little rowdy at night (not scary, just hectic). There's plenty of ramen and quick eats over there. This Gyoza shop is great. Perfect late night eats. You can order on the tablet in English. Warning: they have quite a bit of horse on the menu. I don’t like to eat horse as it is a companion animal to me. But some do. No shame.
Around the corner is this Chinese style ramen joint. I love it when drunk or hungover. Get it spicy if you like spice. Lots of garlic. Salty broth. You order at the vending machine at the front. Have your Google translate camera app ready.
Ichiran is a ramen chain. You eat in a little cubicle-type seat designed beautifully for the solo traveler. And, dig this…it’s 24 HOURS!!!!! I frequently eat a 6am bowl on my first morning when I’m all jet lagged and hungry. But warning, many of the guests will be drunk and partying from the night before at that time. Shinjuku goes hard.
Golden Gai is a crazy ass tiny dive bar district. Some bars are so small you can barely fit a few people in them. You can bar hop dozens of places in a row. I’m a big highball fan and even the most non-tourist friendly place knows what “highball” means. So it’s a good order when bouncing around in off the beaten path places. It’s also packed full of sparkling water so you’ll stay hydrated and process the alcohol easier. If not a highball, draft Sapporo or Asahi are my go-tos.
Akasaka neighborhood has a lot of soba options. I love soba. It’s a great lunch option. I love it served chilled, but you can try multiple different styles. Try a few different shops and tell me your favorite. This is also a great neighborhood for a men’s haircut. I love Bar Luther here. It’s a listening bar that has an affinity for R&B/soul music and a really great sound system. It’s small and spins real vinyl. Go early as it gets busy. Bar Watershed is also very good. But Tokyo has over 30,000 bars. So there are many that are good lol.
Sabasu is a fantastic pizza place! Natural sourdough base. Cool wine list. Great room. They’re a little on the newer side so reservations aren’t too difficult to book but I have a feeling that’s going to change. Tokyo is famous for its pizza and their obsession with Italian food in general and Sabasu’s pizza is as good as anywhere. Give them a follow on Instagram as well.
This Yakitori place kicks ass. Ken Nagao from Sharaku took us here on our last visit and I felt that it was the real deal. We were the only Americans in there and the whole idea is that they start you with some more traditional cuts of chicken and as you work your way through the bird the skewers start getting more exotic. I’m definitely returning here.
No surprise, Japan kicks ass at coffee. There are TONS of great little coffee shops. But Koffee Mameya is pretty epic. The coffee experience here focuses on the bean and roast time. I recommend going here to have a little pour over and to buy beans to take home. This is a wait-in-line-for-a-while-nowhere-to-sit-and-hang type place. Only for black coffee geeks in my opinion.
Narisawa is a fantastic two-star Michelin tasting menu. So well executed. Clean. Mature. Focused. I absolutely loved it and I’m quick to fatigue on Michelin restaurants. From the Michelin Guide:
“With a focus on ‘innovative satoyama cuisine’, this restaurant promotes the satoyama culture of Japan. The chef creates dishes inspired by the unique food culture connected to forests, rivers, lakes, and seas. ‘Bread of the Forest 2010’, made with wild yeast harvested from the Shirakami-Sanchi mountain range, is baked while showing off the leavening process. Innovation preserves the wisdom of predecessors who thrived in harmony with nature, passing these values to the next generation while breathing new life into them.”
Also, 7-11’s are pretty damn famous. Nobody does them better than Japan. Make sure you walk through one at the very least. Maybe grab a couple snacks and drinks. You will also notice there’s vending machines everywhere. I like a can of Boss Coffee in the morning. Most of the machines even warm the can so it’s a hot cup of coffee. Oh, Tokyo. Take all my money.
What else is there to do besides eat and drink all day!?!
Nothing.
Just kidding.
Activities
I recommend Airbnb experiences to find a local guide to show you a walking neighborhood tour or a biking tour or maybe a ramen pub crawl and so on. It’s best to book this early in your trip. You’ll most likely exchange WhatsApp info with them and they can be a resource for the rest of your time there. I like to book a simple experience and then once we start chatting through the app I let them know what kind of custom stuff I’m looking for and offer to pay in cash for the extra time. This puts more money in their pocket and builds rapport. I’ve had a few bum hosts in other countries but never Tokyo. Definitely visit some shrines and temples and parks. I also recommend seeking out live music.
Some other ideas…
A super fun arcade in the anime neighborhood. Wild area to walk around.
This bar/live music club absolutely rocks. So much fun. If you’re a fan of 80s music and sing along rock and roll this is your spot. I LOVED it.
Fender Guitar has their only flagship in the world here. Even if you don’t know a thing about guitars it’s a very cool shop with awesome merch and clothing as well as a coffee shop in the basement that has a liquor license, should you crave one of the coffee highballs.
Listening to live jazz is one of my favorite ways to spend an evening in a new city and if there’s a Blue Note, I try to make a point to visit. Tokyo’s Blue Note is pretty reserved with a very quiet and engaged audience. It’s not a party vibe. But it’s a great room with top talent. Take a look to see who’s playing when you’re there.
Harajuku is a fun neighborhood to people watch and hit up a few vintage clothing shops. Lots of street snacks and silly Instagram opportunities there too. Worth an hour or two for sure.
If you like kitchenwares and knives and shopping around for gear, the Kappabashi neighborhood is a great way to burn a couple hours. If you’re over there, go check out one of my favorite hidden gems: a wood paneled bar properly called 3Wood run by a handsome gentleman on a side street you’d never find on accident. It’s a great room to hide out in and have a couple drinks. Ask him to call you a cab before you leave as it may not be a popular taxi area.
Can’t travel to Japan? Bring Japan to you.
Buy yourself a Zojirushi and start treating yourself to properly cooked rice. (I like this Koshihikari rice). A minimalist Japanese breakfast is a cup of perfectly steamed rice dusted with furikake.
Stock up on high quality tea.
Ship yourself some Tokyo Banana! A breakfast pastry reminiscent of a Twinkie - the official souvenir sweet of Tokyo.
Buy this cookbook from Ivan Orkin. It is packed full of delicious and simple recipes to bring big Japanese flavors into your home kitchen. While you’re at it, window shop your next kitchen knife.
Watch this 80s movie called Tampopo, which is a fun look at food and relationships centered around a ramen shop. Or, enjoy a top tier modern samurai film.
Put on a perfect jazz album from Ryo Fukui and pour yourself a highball. Ryo Fukui was a Japanese jazz pianist based in Sapporo. Or, listen to Maki Asakawa, the “Queen of the Underground” lyricist and composer.
Here’s a link to our Tokyo Google map with all of these locations pinned in one place. We’ll keep adding to this on return trips to keep the recommendations coming. Thank you for following, I hope to see you out there!
Chef James
Thank you for this!