A history
When I was in high school, I flipped a lot of pizzas. In pizzerias, at restaurants, with friends. It was a part of my identity before I got serious about cooking - which was early - I made my email address as “chefrigato@” at 16. I also loved reading and writing and was in AP-anything literature-related but could barely function in math or science. One day, a mean girl called me a “pathetic, poetic pizza boy” and honestly, I wasn’t offended at all. It was fitting.
In my very early 20s, I befriended a tea girl coworker at The Townsend Hotel - a job I absolutely loathed but a place I did make a few amazing friends. Katie was headed to Pratt in Brooklyn to study poetry. I was jealous but couldn’t wait to visit her and NYC for the first time. I also had her send me her required reading each semester so I could do my best to read along: Jeffrey McDaniel, Sarah Manguso, Tracy K Smith, and Yukio Mishima to name a few.
I loved NYC then and I love it now. My first trip was on a single line cook’s budget so I crashed in her dorm, walked miles, drank affogatos, ate pizza, tried duck feet in Chinatown and napped under trees in the Brooklyn Botanical Garden. If you’re on that kind of budget, I highly recommend it. Katie also introduced me to Brown Bird, which became the Mabel Gray namesake. So many roads for me lead to NYC.
When I visit NYC now it’s usually for 24-48 hours, although a longer trip would be great. I took my nephews for their first time in February of 2020. Crazy timing. But they got to see pre-Covid NYC. Which is cool. Our flight had to be rerouted to Providence due to weather and while we got off the plane and were waiting for the airline to assist (lol) I told the boys to grab their bags and run. We caught a cab and made the last train to Penn Station with little time to spare. We made it to NYC very late, but at least we made it.
New York is a dense city with limitless options so feel free to deviate from my exact itinerary or fill in the blanks. I’m not an expert in the city but I have been there dozens of times and have spent immeasurable amounts of money eating, drinking and sleeping. You’ll notice I focus a little on Italian American cuisine when I’m in NYC. (Mostly because our Italian American food scene in Metro Detroit is severely lacking). The truth is, there’s tons of great cuisine in NYC. So if you want Indian or Thai or Latin American, you’re going to find world class options. But this isn’t a complete overview of the city. It’s what I personally prefer when visiting. Here’s what I do:
Flights
Fly into LaGuardia, especially from Detroit. The daily direct flights are a great resource and that new LGA is possibly my favorite airport in America. The Delta SkyLounge is nice and spacious but honestly, Delta’s food is so terrible I think I’d rather eat at a local high school cafeteria. For all the things Delta gets right, why is their food program catered from the bowels of hell? My point being, when flying home, go to the SkyLounge if you need access to WiFi, coffee, options at the bar and bathrooms. But venture out into LGA for food if you need it.
I like to take the early flight and get in around 8:45am. I’ll cab to my hotel right away to drop my bag off and see if the room is ready. Sounds crazy, but sometimes it is! I recently stayed at The Prince Kitano in Midtown and the room was ready at 9:45am. I chose that hotel because I like Japanese business hotels and they have Toto toilets in the rooms. Can’t beat that! Dōmo arigatōgozaimasu.
Lodging
I like staying at the Ace Hotel Brooklyn (not Manhattan). It’s close to LGA and has a great lobby to chill in. Whenever I wanna do more Brooklyn stops, I stay here.
The Roxy. Bonus: Django is a live music venue in the basement that has four sets a night, seven days a week. The main bar/dining room also has live music. I love The Roxy for this. A great place to hang and kill time between meals. Also, the hotel itself is slick.
The James NoMad (now Hotel Seville NoMad).
Hotel Chelsea comes highly recommended but I haven’t been.
Hotel Edison in Times Square. Not because it’s a nice hotel but because they filmed Luca Brasi walking through the hallway for the Godfather right before he was strangled by Sollozzo and his goons in an attempt to weaken Don Corleone’s defenses. So, you can take a pic in the exact hallway. It’s also close to Broadway, Times Square and Central Park if those are walking destinations for you.
Itinerary
Morning
Once I drop my bags off, I like to get coffee at Abraço or go get a sando at Katz’s Deli. I like to go to Katz early because I hate waiting in line. I like to take a friend and split a sandwich and a plate of new & old pickles and have my first beer of the day. This is an especially important stop if you’re with a first time visitor to the city. Within walking distance is Ivan Ramen which is a popular visit of mine. Russ & Daughters is right down the street from Katz’s if you’re more of a bagel and smoked fish person. Can’t go wrong. I’m more of a pastrami and beer type.
Activities
Once I’ve stuffed myself it’s time to walk around, visit record shops, get more coffee, check out a museum or two or schedule a show at the Hayden Planetarium. You’re never too old for the planetarium and it does wonders for anxiety. Worried about work or life or existential dread? How about you watch a show on the vastness of the universe and everyone’s inevitable demise. It settles me. You can also walk and people watch Central Park, which is top tier, especially in the summer. I also like to pop in to the Guggenheim to see who’s there. Such a great museum.
I should note, I hate the NYC Subway. So I’m cabs/uber/walking everywhere. If you like it, have at it. But I would rather work hard and save money to avoid it. In many other cities, I’m all about the subway. But not New York. Not a fan.
One of my favorite all day hangs in the world is Radegast in Williamsburg. Live music or a soccer match on TV or completely empty with me sitting in a dark corner drinking Kolsch, Radagast is a perfect place. I think of it often. I love this place.
Broadway isn’t to be missed. I’m not a big musical guy, but there’s always a show for you. Just start researching shows in New York and I guarantee you’ll come across something that strikes your fancy. I like the matinee shows on Sundays, personally. That way I can do two dinners instead of a nighttime show.
Another lunch spot I dig for taking new visitors to the city is Manhatta. While the view is kind of the selling point, it’s also a Danny Meyer restaurant that really excels in food, beverage and service for a destination/view restaurant. I’ve been twice and would happily go again. Don’t overlook it! (See what I did there 👀).
Eataly. It may sound cliche this many years in and the fact that they seem to be in every major city, but walking around Eataly in Flatiron right next to Madison Square Park (home of the original Shake Shack location) is a great place to take first timers or kill time solo. A simple espresso, scoop of gelato, gifts of imported pasta or a full on meal of pizza and pasta, Eataly stays worth it, even if it’s not on any media list. In fact, I’ll often book a reservation first thing at the pizza restaurant if I have a group with me and need a guaranteed table and a reliable menu. Not necessarily first choice, but a crowd pleasing visit.
There’s been a little boost of listening bars popping up. I dream of them when I’m not in Japan. I haven’t been to these but they are 100% my vibe for between meals.
I always check out who is playing at Blue Note. I’ve been many times, even if I don’t know the artist playing. Always worth a visit.
Restaurants & bars
Fine dining
In my opinion, Gramercy Tavern is THE American restaurant. If we had to submit one American restaurant to the universe that represents American cooking and craftsmanship I feel like they’d be a good contender. I love eating there around the holidays.
Le Coucou is a staple for me. Chef Daniel Rose is from Dearborn originally, but made his name at Spring in Paris. I ate there in 2015 and couldn’t wait for him to open something in the states. I ate at Le Coucou again a few nights ago and yes, it was excellent.
If you’re gonna do three-Michelin I think Le Bernardin is the go-to. Especially because they offer lunch! I’m a little fatigued of fine dining at that level but they’re still the best in the city and if you haven’t been, it’s worth it. Per Se is of course famous and worth it too, but it’s more of a portal than an NYC experience. Don’t rule it out if you’re looking to splurge, but if you’re picking one, I’d go Le Bernardin.
Casual
If you have a few friends, I love going to Peking Duck House. Killer spot. Also, fun to explore Chinatown before and after a good meal. (Note: If you’re in Chinatown I always love popping into one of the reflexology foot rub joints. Expert foot care for a great price and keeps me walking miles without fatigue.)
Our good friend Andrew Carmellini is a staple in the city and a Midwest legend (he’s from Cleveland). Definitely check out one of his spots, especially the Italian ones.
Pizza
Luigi’s Park Slope. This is my kind of slice. Old school. Pizzaiolo Gio is a local legend and getting pizza here feels very New York. It’s a little bit of a hike but well worth the visit.
Scarr’s. The fact that you can sit at a bar and have a crispy Pilsner or Kolsch while eating your slice puts this spot ahead of others. But the slices are delicious as well. Especially in Lower East Side, where you can bop around to different bars, pizza shops, vintage stores and make your way to Chinatown for that foot rub.
Roberta’s. Not exactly traditional New York-style but instead wood fired, smokey crust pies with some great salads and pastas and a place to drink a few spritzs, Roberta’s has grown from a cult following around 2008 to a full on family restaurant. But it still makes great pizzas that are probably closest to what I try to cook in my backyard oven. Love going there and they take reservations.
Nate’s Detroit Pizza. If you want a taste of home, go visit Detroit transplant Nate Skid (who used to write for Crain’s) and his expanding footprint of Detroit goodness.
Cocktail bars
Mace - spiced based cocktail bar in the East Village.
Sunken Harbor Club - an immersive tiki bar experience above Gage & Tollner.
Employees Only (yes, I know it’s not trending anymore and it’s past its heyday, blah blah. I’ve had a great time there a few times. I don’t go every visit to the city. But it’s worth a stop).
Something to note: I try to find a little dive or old bar every time I visit. One of the beautiful things about NYC is the density. It’s impossible to go or try everything in one lifetime. So keep exploring. Ask your bartender or server or concierge where they like to go and then go there. I love a cold beer in the middle of the day in a sleepy dark bar while outside the city is full of commotion. Can’t beat it.
Also, after a long night, can find a $10 halal plate, which is perfect when you’re drunk.
A few impossible reservations/wait times that are worth the fight:
Don Angie. This is my favorite restaurant in America. Maybe because it’s a very personal experience. Nostalgic. Relevant. Modern. All at once. Scott & Angie are fantastic ambassador’s of Italian American cooking and their cookbook is possibly one of the best cookbooks in the new millennium. I can’t overstate how much I love the restaurant but it may not be worth the wait for you, if you don’t cherish Italian American cooking. Their little sister restaurant San Sabino is seafood-focused and also excellent.
Una Pizzeria. Pizzaiolo Anthony Mangieri is pretty world famous at this point and his extremely authentic and dialed in Napoletana pizzas are worth the hype. If this is your style, he’s the head of the class. Yes, it’s worth the effort to get in.
L’industrie. There are lots of great slice places. But from the NYT to your local line cook, L’industrie seems to be a crossover success that the mainstream and diehards alike can agree on.
Paulina’s recommendations
Paulina: My husband Adam and I have a running list of must-visits, and try to get to New York at least once a year. As food and beverage enthusiasts, and museum-lovers, a year is not complete without a trip to NYC. It helps keeps us fresh - checking in with experimental concepts and revisiting old standards. The perk of living in Metro Detroit is having a direct flight and the means to visit one of the most vibrant cities in the world. Here are some of our favorites…
Lodging
I always stay at The Ludlow. Incredible location in the Lower East Side, walking distance from great cocktail bars, Russ & Daughters Café and Katz Deli (as mentioned above). I can grab my morning coffee at Ludlow Coffee Supply, and kill time between meals perusing boutiques like Assembly New York and Coming Soon. There’s an epic vintage candy shop near here as well.
If money were no object, I’d stay at The Bowery Hotel or The Carlyle for a taste of old New York, with live music and a gin martini at Bemelmans Bar.
Activities
Usually I’m visiting New York with the expressed purpose of seeing some sort of show. I saw the original off-Broadway production of Grey Gardens in high school and was forever changed. Last year, I took my mom to see Oh Mary! for one of the most joyful 90 minutes of my life - no exaggeration. Adam is not a musical guy but he loved Sweeney Todd. There is something for everyone! Supporting the arts and experiencing live performance is soul-affirming.
Restaurants
This is a rapid fire list, in no particular order.
Russ & Daughters Café for a bottle of champagne, bagel board and caviar in the morning.
Thai Diner any time of day for any reason.
Radio Bakery for some sort of seasonal savory pastry and a pick-me-up. Be prepared to wait in line. Chez Ma Tante for brunch. Claud for their chocolate cake.
Dame, Lord’s or Crevette - all from the same restaurant group with vibrant menus and thoughtful wine lists. Dame’s fish and chips live up to the hype, as do the oysters with chartreuse hollandaise.
Mama’s Too for pizza (in addition to Chef’s recommendations above).
Via Carota timeless osteria with a high probability for a celebrity sighting. So simple and satisfying. i Sodi is their sister restaurant.
King for the wine list. Cervo’s for seafood. Minetta Tavern for a lunch martini and a burger. Raoul’s comes highly recommended as a bustling French-American bistro standard. Balthazar or Grand Central Oyster Bar for people watching. Oh, and Keen’s Steakhouse is a classic.
Tolo (Chinese snacks with extensive wine list) or Ha’s Snack Bar. Wu’s Wonton King is and industry darling and BYOB!
Wine & cocktail bars
The Parcelle in Greenwich Village is my favorite place for a pre-show snack and bottle of champagne. I marvel at the curated interiors and always love the playlist. Plus, you can hear the locals playing tennis across the street which is strangely soothing.
Lei just opened in Chinatown and shot to the top of my list.
Wine savant Pascaline Lepeltier is at the helm of Chambers, which is elegant and comfortable. I’d love to tuck into the bar at Demo or Aldo Sohm. Four Horsemen is worth a visit if you’re an audiophile who loves natural wines. It’s an institution, but quite difficult to get in, and there are a lot of other great wine lists in the city. Like COQODAQ which has the greatest. champagne. list. in the world!!
For cocktails, my favorites are Katana Kitten for highballs after dinner. Double Chicken Please if you’re looking to be mesmerized by sheer bar talent. Superbueno for Mexican-inspired cocktails and a lively atmosphere. Schmuck is all the rage these days, it seems. I love Attaboy for a sexy, dark dealers-choice experience.
As always, here’s a hefty Google map to help you get around.
Bring NYC to you!
Watch every season of Sex and the City, Gangs of New York, any Nora Ephron film or Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles.
Try your hand at New York style pizza via Scarr’s cookbook.
Re-read Great Gatsby (both film versions are also worth watching!) or Catcher in the Rye.
If you’re a hip hop fan, there’s no better way to get into the mood for NYC than listening to DMX, Wu-Tang or Nas.
Order pastrami to your door from Katz’s Deli.
So many amazing places in this list and post. Mad props for the Peking Duck House mention. Plus it’s still BYOB!
Don Angie is truly exceptional. I dream about their Shell Steak al Limone. People go for the famous lasagna but you’re missing out if you don’t get the steak and share.