Hi all! Paulina here.
A few summers back, Chef mentioned he booked a quick trip to Madison to see a concert and I squealed with excitement, furiously texting him recommendations. He went into it with low expectations, anticipating the familiar vibe of a midwestern college town and came back converted. “I could move to Madison tomorrow,” he said. Which is huge, considering what a loyal Michigander he is. It’s true, though - Madison has it all. It’s a capital city and a college town. It’s a cosmopolitan oasis surrounded by farms. It has all four seasons, and incredible food scene, and it’s technically an isthmus, with lake views at every turn. The University of Wisconsin-Madison attracts intellectuals and bohemians. The people are humble and friendly. The ice cream is so good. What’s not to love?
I’m validated by Chef’s opinion of Madison because I attended University of Wisconsin-Madison, graduating with my Bachelor’s in English Literature in 2011 (go Badgers). I look back on my time there with the rosiest of glasses. I made incredible friends from all over the country, attended classes with names like “Sex and Spirituality from Dante to Aretha Franklin,” and (most-importantly) attended the farmers market every Saturday, teaching myself how to cook in my studio apartment. I moved back home to Michigan immediately after graduation, but still have dear friends there and try to visit as often as possible. I dragged my husband, Adam, to Madison the month before we got married because I just needed him to see the place where I became an adult. Maybe I will write my bildungsroman about my days there eventually - but not today. The purpose of this guide is to convince you to drive the extra 2.5 hours past Chicago, or 1 hour west of Milwaukee, to our Midwestern north star. It’s worth it!
Getting there
Madison is about a 7-hour drive from Detroit. If you drive like Chef, it’s more like 6 hours. If you drive more like me, it’s 8 hours. I always find myself trapped in Chicago-area traffic and I like to take the scenic route. Choose your own adventure. You can break up the drive by staying a night in Chicago (the topic of another city guide down the line). There are flights into Madison but the airport is small so they’re expensive. I prefer to have a car in Madison anyways, so I don’t mind the drive. There are things to see outside of Madison in other parts of Wisconsin, too (like the family-friendly Wisconsin Dells). Bring your bicycle if you have one, as the city is incredibly bike-friendly. Parking options abound.
Where to stay
You’ll most likely be spending most of your time outside of your hotel room, so location is key here. Last time I visited, we stayed at the Sheraton which is allows dogs and the location is prime. I like to be as close to the Capital Square as possible. The Concourse Hotel is a classic, but a few newer hotels have opened or been renovated since I was in school…
The waterfront Edgewater is right on downtown campus, walking distance from the capital.
Activities
UW-Madison’s student union (Memorial Union) is one of the most scenic in the country, overlooking Lake Mendota. Order a local beer and get a bag of popcorn for the table.
I recommend planning your trip around being in town for the Dane County Farmer’s Market on Saturdays. Over 150 vendors are there, selling everything from vintage clothing to flowers, prepared foods, produce, and cheese.
Visit the Chazen Museum of Art or the National Mustard Museum.
Hiking trails and biking trails abound along the lakeshores. Snowshoeing is also popular in winter months.
Take a 30 minute drive to tour New Glarus Brewery - the first brewery to be owned and operated by a woman. Their fruit beers are world class, with tremendous longevity.
Go to a game at the oldest (and fifth largest) stadium in the Big Ten conference: Camp Randall.
Food & drink
Madison is intoxicatingly laid-back. Bloody Marys automatically come with a sidecar of beer (usually Schlitz or Blatz). It’s completely normal (and encouraged) to have a pitcher of beer, a bag of popcorn and a serving of ice cream on your table mid-day. Brats, cheese curds, and Brandy Old Fashioneds are king. Wisconsin has some of the oldest and most well-known Supper Clubs in the country, and that greatly influences the style of dining across the board.
Supper clubs are a community space and family-owned restaurant known for welcoming hospitality, comfort food and a retro vibe. A lot of Madison’s dining scene echoes this ethos, but fine dining is not forgotten. The city appeals to drunk college kids and parents visiting from coast-to-coast. There’s a strong germanic influence, of course, but also killer Laotian, African and Middle Eastern cuisine. Madison embodies the high-low attitude we champion at Mabel, and depending on the neighborhood, mood, or price point, the city is truly a moveable feast.
Coffee & breakfast
Bradbury’s - A tiny café with thoughtfully sourced coffee available in multiple brewing methods. Their simple crêpe menu offers sweet or savory combinations based on what’s in season at the farmer’s market down the street.
Johnson Public House - I love this side of town. A great place to hang, with snacks and coffee offerings. The ideal “third space.”
Colectivo - started in Milwaukee, now with multiple locations in Madison and Chicago. This shop is great for a grab-and-go option that isn’t Starbucks. Nothing better than cold brewed SPORTea on a hot day.
Gotham Bagels - for a grab and go bagel sandwich with creative schmear options. Their super egg everything bagel is revelatory.
Mickie’s Dairy Bar - hearty diner-style breakfast. An institution!
Cocktails
Gib’s - cocktail bar in a repurposed home on the warmly nicknamed “Willy Street” (Williamson Street).
Robin Room - retro tiki vibes.
Public Parking - one of Bon Appetit’s Best New Bars 2025.
Dive Bars
Next to Public Parking on E. Johnson is The Caribou - a low-key watering hole for all walks of life.
Crystal Corner Bar for cheap drinks and live music. Also on Willy Street, Mickey’s Tavern.
On the Capital Square, my favorite is Genna’s.
Dining:
For Wisconsin-y low brow fare, my favorites are The Old Fashioned and and Chef Tory Miller’s Graze. The Old Fashioned is by-far my most frequented Madison restaurant. It’s incredibly cozy, always bustling, and the menu is a lengthy love letter to Wisconsin and the Midwest at large. Their Friday fish fry, burger and cheese curds (with horseradish-y ‘tiger’ sauce) are not to be missed. Graze has a gorgeous view of the capital, as well.
Other favorites include:
Mint Mark - casual and colorful new American.
L’Etoile - upscale and French-inspired with many James Beard nods.
Fairchild - Chef-driven, informal, farm-focused cuisine in a cozy space.
Lallande - our friend Melva recommended this to us and we trust her judgment!
Sardine - seafood bistro with gorgeous lake views.
Harvey House - upscale supper club near Madison’s Historic Train depot.
Pizza Brutta - woodfired, Neapolitan-style pizza.
Salvatore’s Tomato Pies for Jersey-style pizza. And a nod to Greenbush pizza in the basement of one of America’s oldest continually operating Italian social clubs.
Wisconsin is known as “America’s Dairyland,” and is one of the leading producers of cheese in the country. The ice cream in Madison is unlike anything I’ve had in my life and I miss it all the time. My favorite ice cream shops are Babcock Dairy (run by students in the UW Food & Science department) and Michael’s Frozen Custard.
Here’s a link to our comprehensive Google map to help you get around.
Chef’s take…
It’s true. My girlfriend Sam and I fell in love with Madison pretty hard. The combination of local agriculture, hospitality, dive bars, old school midwestern charm and walkability was enough to do us in. We took the Ferry from Muskegon to Milwaukee, which is a pretty cool thing to do if you haven’t before. It’s nice to traverse a Great Lake every now and then. If I did this trip again I’d make sure to for dinner at Birch in Milwaukee, as they seem to be doing incredible work.
But once we got to Madison, the Olbrich Botanical Gardens were worth the drive alone! Definitely needed a few hours to explore and soak it in. We stayed at the Edgewater Hotel which was a great central location overlooking the water. A little dated but cute. My favorite bars were Gib’s and Caribou (mentioned above).
Tornado Room was a Time Machine where the food actually met your nostalgic expectations. That restaurant lives in my head rent free. We woke up one morning very hung over and our lives were saved by the wildly delicious Lao Laan-Xang, a local staple that I’m highly envious is not in Hazel Park.
Madison just may be the most complete city for a traveler like me in the Midwest. Small town charm. College town perks. Top tier eating and drinking.
Bring Wisconsin to you
Celebrating Wisconsin, ironically, is just the perfect Sunday picnic. Explore the exceptional domestic cheese selection at Monger’s Provisions. Chef is partial to Hook’s 10 year aged cheddar if you can find it. Get yourself some summer sausage from Zingerman’s or Olympia Provisions.
Listen to the Violent Femmes. Drink MGD. Let the sun hit your face, knowing it will be winter soon enough.
Headed to Madison for the Coldplay concert at Camp Randall and using all of this as our guide! So glad I found it as there is very little on the area online (that isn't seriously touristy)! Thanks to you both!