Ah, yes! The Emerald Isle. Quite possibly the most American-friendly destination in Europe. Not only is English the common language, but there were so many Irish immigrants from 1820-1960 that the odds of many Americans (and Canadians) having Irish lineage is pretty high (my mother’s maiden name is Brennan). So, it’s easy to guess that there’s a natural and easy friendship between the Irish and the Americans. Not to mention the Irish are really a friendly bunch. Live music, comforting food, warm hospitality and a cold pint are mainstays nearly everywhere you go. I have been to Ireland three times with my fourth trip already booked for April. I’ll be leading a food tour with Bog & Thunder.
Ireland is deserving of all of the wonderful things you have heard and seen about it. Sam, my girlfriend, credits it as her favorite country she’s ever visited.
First thing’s first: there are a couple ridiculous reputations that we need to address.
Importantly, the food. I found the food in Ireland to be consistently fresh, clean, delicious and locally sourced. Not only were the Michelin and high-end restaurants absolutely excellent, but even the common small town pub food was great. And the breakfasts are huge! Blood sausage to start the day!? Yes, please. Even though Italy is one of my favorite countries in the world, I found the Michelin restaurants in Ireland to be more impressive at large than the Michelin restaurants in Italy. The next reputation that doesn’t hold up is the alcoholism. Yes, the Irish drink. And they drink a lot! But, outside of college/tourist bars the drinking culture isn’t as crazy as New Orleans or Nashville or Austin or Vegas. I’d even argue that Guinness is nearly impossible to get violently drunk on. Now, the Irish love their pubs and pints. And so do I! But Czech Republic, Romania and Portugal all have higher alcohol consumption rates per capita (according to the WHO) and those countries don’t have an exaggerated reputation about them. So keep in mind, I found the pub culture to be safe, considerate and good vibes. Especially the small town ones. So if you’ve been hesitant to invest in a trip because of the “bad food” stigma or drunks-in-public concern, I think the coast is clear.
Getting there
Sadly, getting to Ireland from Detroit is not exactly convenient. You have to layover. Although, I do hear they’re working on a direct to Dublin from Detroit. I will believe it when I see it but I’m very excited! Once you land in Dublin, I recommend taking the train straight to Galway. You can cab or an Uber from the airport to the train station pretty easily. Now, Dublin has a lot to see and some great restaurants. But I think the Dublin to Galway comparison is kind of like landing in Boston and heading to Portland, Maine. Boston has plenty to see and tons of history. But the per capita quality of restaurants, nature, bars, and walkability puts Portland far above Boston in the enjoyment factor for me. Feel free to turn this into a two week trip and tour around the whole country. I’ve done that a couple times. The Guinness brewery alone is worth a stop in Dublin but if you have eight days or less, I would head straight to Galway via the train and maybe spend my last two nights in Dublin because you will have to fly out of there regardless.
Where to stay
Galway has a lot of lodging options. Anything more central in the historic parts of town will have smaller rooms and probably higher noise levels from the street. If you are there to hang out, party and don’t have kids, this might be a good option: The Residence.
If you are looking for something near downtown, but more historic and a tad higher end, I’ve stayed here a couple times: The Hardiman.
If money is no option, and you are looking for some spa services away from the hustle and bustle and want romantic and spacious energy I would stay here: Glenlo Abbey.
Where to eat
Kai is absolutely fantastic. Chef Jess is amazing and quite an inspiring person to follow on Instagram. I feel like she and I share many points of view and Mabel Gray and Kai could be sibling restaurants. Make a reservation and definitely dine here.
Lignum is quite possibly one of the best meals I’ve had in Europe. You will need to take a taxi as it is not in city center. But it’s absolutely destination worthy, and the fact that it is only one-Michelin star is proof enough that the system is flawed. Wood fired cuisine from an Italian chef utilizing Irish ingredients in the countryside with dry aging, fermentation and a brilliant wine program. I would go to Ireland just to eat here again.
JP McMahon is a pretty legendary Irish chef. A huge ambassador for all things from the West Coast of Ireland. He’s also an author, playwright and PhD. A fascinating guy to follow, and his restaurants are very true to the spirit of Galway.
Aniar: “Aniar is a Michelin Starred restaurant located in Galyway’s West End. Our food comes from the specific place that is the west of Ireland.”
Cava Bodega: a celebration of Spanish cooking.
Kombu: a ramen and bao bar.
Ard Bia: an adorable cafe right next to Galway City Museum. A great option and longtime pillar of the food scene.
Rúibín: A killer restaurant with a cozy dining room, bar and upstairs seating. Had a fantastic lunch here and would return again. Not to mention, they have a few champagnes, which is a nice reprieve after days of drinking Guinness and whiskey.
A note on pubs
I love pubs and pub culture and recommend you visit absolutely as many as possible. What I love and what you love in a pub may be different. I want to feel like I could disappear into the ambience while live music plays in the background and I sip hot whiskeys and cold pints until I lose track of the evening. I love cozy corners and dark wood and creaking floors and shining tap handles. I love a seafood chowder and a lamb stew and a fish and chips. Pubs are more (or at least equally as) important as the churches and cathedrals of Ireland. I have never been to any Irish pub in America that did them justice. Long live the pub. If you go, tell me what your favorite one was.
Destination pub: The King’s Head.
My favorite pub: Tig Cóilí
Low key industry spot: Bierhaus
One of my favorite things about most European cities is the late night kebab culture. I have definitely ordered too much food from this place a few times.
Activities
This is one of my favorite museums. Small size, great layout and fascinating history. Not to mention, you can walk right outside and walk into a delicious café.
I highly recommend taking a morning and doing a river cruise. The history is fascinating, the ride is quick and comfortable, and I love a new form of transportation on a trip. Sightseeing River Cruise (there’s a bar on the boat.)
Every time I’ve been to Ireland, I hired a private driver at some point. There are plenty of resources online, through TripAdvisor or through the concierge at your hotel. Every driver I’ve ever hired has been a wonderful human full of history and tips and drove me safely everywhere I wanted to go. I feel like it’s a slightly common job for socially active but retired Irishmen. Hire a private driver to take you on a driving tour of the Connemara region. Stop at Clifden for lunch at a pub. Visit a castle.
No matter where you stay in Galway, make sure to walk along the River Corrib at some point. Maybe before dinner or one morning in search of adorable coffee shops. But it’s a very beautiful river and a moody experience anytime of year.
Speaking of coffee! This place was a morning ritual for us and has an adorable little shop above it. So cute!
Need coffee & pastry? This place was great. Wish I lived near it.
Guest tour guide MyThy Huynh shares her favorite parts of Galway:
1. It’s right along the coast and I love seeing water or mountains when I travel. And Galway has that with the Cliffs of Moher and Connemara National Park and the drive to Kylemore Abbey. Not to mention the adorable black and white goats that stud the mountains.
2. Kai: hands down fave food. European meets bright setting and food that you feel good about eating. Like Spencer meets Selden meets Mabel Gray in terms of seasonality meets originality combined with energy and vibrance. The desserts on display are pure eye candy.
3. Seafood paradise with fresh fish of any kind and Moran’s Oysters. There’s Japanese fish sushi but somehow different in Galway.
4. The pubs!!! So festive and friendly. I was told by patients that had just come back from Ireland and said these are the nicest people you’ll meet. It’s true.
5. Xi’an Street Food at Quay Street. Festive walking followed by amazing Sichuan food. When in Ireland, you have to have a spice bag in Dublin. And since Dublin is too far, Xi’an Street Food has it! Went back 3 times.
6. Lignum- what a dream and worth the drive. Like Asador Etxebarri using various woods and cooking over live fire, Lignum is set in their working garden with windows for you to see how your food is plucked straight from the garden before being cooked over raw flames. The presentation and food is immaculate as is the hospitality. Nothing rushed and not too long— rather, a journey. Bonus is walking through the kitchen and seeing the monstrous larder. Preservation at its finest.
Bring Ireland to you!
Buy (and cook from!) the Irish Cookbook.
Drink a Guinness and practice ‘splitting the G.’ Non-alcoholic Guinness ‘0’ is also arguably the best N/A beer on the American market. Alternatively, make a proper hot whiskey on a cold night and never look at warm drinks the same way again.
Throw on some ‘ol Bing while you’re at it: Bing Crosby’s Irish Songbook.
Invest in Celtic pottery or a classic sweater.
Dream of enrolling in Ballymaloe Cooking School.