Hi friends! Chef James here…
You would think that after a year-and-a-half of writing a travel guide, we would’ve considered our own hometown already. But it’s easy to take where you live for granted. I think of Detroit as the real capital of Michigan. The Crown Jewel of the Rust Belt. A true modern American city, where independent businesses can still open up for a somewhat reasonable cost. Where all four seasons show up and show out. All major sports teams have representation. A city that guarantees a stop on big-name-musician tours. An airport with quick direct flight to New York, Chicago, Atlanta, Miami, New Orleans not to mention a daily direct flight to Tokyo. Relatively affordable housing. A body of water always within a stone’s throw. A city where the bar food scene is just as interesting as the fine dining food scene. And how about Dearborn and the incredible diversity of Middle Eastern cuisine inside its city limits! Or the John R corridor in Madison Heights and all of its Asian influence and ingredients. Sure, Michigan isn’t perfect. There’s definitely some crust and rust. But that’s what makes it real. And interesting. The people of Detroit, southeast Michigan and the entire state represent a do-it-yourself, tough but hospitable lifestyle. The friendliness in the Midwest is not a myth. You can be tough, interesting and kind. To me, that’s what I think of when describing Detroit.
Where to stay
Detroit has had a few luxury and boutique hotel options pop up in the past 5-10 years! Our favorite is the Shinola Hotel, but the Siren and Detroit Foundation are also great options with great bars/restaurants within. There are some great AirBnB options for surrounding Detroit neighborhoods like Hamtramck or the suburb of Ferndale. There will be a Detroit EDITION Hotel in the new Hudson’s building in 2027.
Getting around
Detroit is called the ‘Motor City’ for a reason. Located between the iron ore of Minnesota, coal fields of Appalachia, and the Detroit River for transport, the city was established as an early hub for manufacturing. After Ford’s invention of the Assembly Line secured the legacy of the automobile, the physical infrastructure of the city was altered to accommodate millions of cars entering and exiting the region. This means you really need a car to get around. Public transportation is limited and oftentimes unreliable. Rideshares are always an option for when you’re drinking, but we’d recommend having a rental car to get across town.
Culture & Arts
The city has a tremendous art scene. The Detroit Institute of Arts is a world-class museum known for the Rivera Court featuring Detroit Industry frescoes. Allocate at least a few hours to walk around the whole museum, grabbing a snack at Kresge Court if you get peckish. If you need lunch afterwards, our friends at Chartreuse are right next door. The Wright museum is right behind and has lovely exhibitions, as well.
Other incredible art spaces include the Museum of Contemporary Art Detroit (MOCAD), Library Street Collective and the newly-transformed 100-year-old Romanesque-style church turned cultural arts center and sculpture park The Shepherd in Little Village. If you find yourself in Little Village, bring a blanket have a boozy outdoor picnic moment at Father Forgive Me, with pastries from James Beard-award winning Warda Patisserie (they have two locations).
Oof course, a tour of the Motown Museum is an absolute must. You could marvel at the intoxicating architecture of the Guardian Building or Fisher Building, and pick up a keepsake tile or vase at Pewabic Pottery’s art market. Book a tour of the Michigan Central train station.
Outside of the city itself, more world-class art and design experiences abound: the Cranbrook Art Museum (where the Eames chairs were invented), and surrounding campus are stunning. The Henry Ford Museum and Greenfield Village are great for kids and history buffs.
Shopping
Also in Little Village is our friend Angela’s shop Coup D’Etat, one of the “50 Best Clothing Stores in America” and our favorite place for gifts and housewares. Grab a beer next door at Cøllect. Since you’re on the east side, swing by Eugenie for emerging, boutique clothing brands and accessories. Have lunch at Norm’s Diner and swing into Velvet Tower for vintage treasures. Peoples Records for vinyl and John K. King for miles and miles of used and rare books.
The sprawling outdoor Eastern Market on Sunday morning is the place to be for local food vendors, plants and a lively crowd.
In Midtown’s Cass Corridor, you’ll find housewares, gifts, cards and knick knacks at City Bird and Nest. Across the street is Jack White’s funhouse Third Man Records and a brick-and-mortar Shinola store. You could also visit the Carhartt store while on this side of town. In Corktown, for a more bohemian vibe we love El Dorado General Store and for consignment designer vintage - Boro. Think ahead and book a facial or hair appointment at Studio Vera or a nail appointment at Cure Nailhouse. What a treat!
More shopping farther north in suburban-Detroit there’s Rail & Anchor and their sister coffee-shop-wine-bar Corner Shop. An epic lunch option in Ferndale/Royal Oak is Tall Trees Café. Next door to Rail & Anchor is UHF Records and even farther north is a curated version of our favorite vintage clothing store, Lost & Found Vintage.
Outdoor Activities
Detroit may not be known for its green space, but we have many creative ways to be outdoors in peak season. Belle Isle is a large island state park with river views and attractions like the Anna Scripps Whitcomb Conservatory and the oldest Aquarium in North America.
The Detroit Riverfront parks and greenways are newly upgraded and great for families. The Dequindre Cut is paved between Eastern Market and the Riverfront, connecting the neighborhoods along the way for pedestrians and bicyclists.
Participate in Coriander Kitchen’s Paddle-to-Table dinners where you kayak the Detroit River and its canals with Detroit River Sports and then sit water side for a delicious meal at Coriander.
Coffee & Pastries
We have tons of lovely coffee shops and gathering spaces. Some of our favorites are Trinosophes, Anthology Coffee, Alba, La Ventana, Red Hook, Milwaukee Caffè and (in sunny Hazel Park) Kazkara. In our opinion, the city’s best pastries are found at Warda Patisserie, Forest Bakery, chocolates at Bon Bon Bon and Mediterranean sweets at Shatila. La Gloria in Mexicantown for trays of Mexican sweets. The best bagels are at Bev’s.
Where to Eat
I’ve long spoken out about the necessity to support chef-owned restaurants. I can attest that what makes Southeast Michigan so interesting as a food scene is the amount of chef-owned restaurants. I can remember cooking in and around Southeast Michigan between 9/11 and the Great Recession. It was not at all what you see today. There has always been a collection of great chefs, running great restaurants. But the post recession boom of a generation of chefs partnering into properties and OWNING their restaurants sparked a real buy-in. From the chefs, of course, but also from the communities around them. Most of these great restaurants are still open today.
Selden Standard for wood-fire grilled new American cuisine and an eclectic wine list.
SheWolf for upscale Roman and Medusa for coastal Sicilian plates.
Grey Ghost is a steakhouse embodying Detroit’s industrial vibe, serving the best burger in the city. Leña is creative and expertly-seasoned Spanish cuisine. These are our favorite spots to visit before a game or concert at Little Caesar’s Arena.
Cocktails and spicy Thai cuisine in a spaceship atmosphere at Takoi.
Herbaceous wood-fired Argentinian restaurant Barda and it’s casual sister, Puma.
Baobab Fare celebrating East African cuisine.
Vecino for modern Mexican and the best agave spirits program in town.
Yemen Café for late night Yemeni and Middle Eastern in Hamtramck (usually after many drinks at Bumbo’s or Kelly’s).
Rose’s for tiny pickle martinis and modern Polish plates.
London Chop House for shrimp cocktail and Detroit’s old world glamour.
In Mexicantown, we frequent Los Galanes and Taqueria El Rey & Lupita’s.
In Madison Heights, we love Pho Tai, Que Huong, 168 Asian Mart, Kim Nhung Super Food, Trizest, Ima, Lao Pot & Little Saigon.
In Dearborn, we love Dearborn Meat Market, AlTayeb, Al Ameer & Qahwah House. We often reference Danny Palumbo’s Eater list.
A note on coneys & pizza
The coney dog really needs no introduction. I think it’s a perfect food. In the American versus Lafayette argument, I am team Lafayette. But I love Duly’s. And National. Hell, I’ll eat a couple from Grandy’s right now. They deep fry the hotdog at Telway and I’ll still eat one there. It’s not really a competition. It’s more of a celebration. The coney is our culinary mascot. I’m cool with anyone waving the flag.
Pizza….
This is complicated. I think Pizza needs its own post(s). To be continued…
Wine, Cocktails & Nightlife
Detroit is a cocktail city!! Although, the natural wine bars have really popped off in recent years. There’s somewhere special to drink at every turn…
Our favorite wine bars are:
Vesper Books & Wine for lounging, reading, snacking and drinking.
Bar Chenin, a micro-wine bar tucked in the Siren hotel. Get the pizza! And the ice cream!
French wine bar-inspired Ladder4 has a gorgeous backyard and rooftop patio. Great option for dinner as well.
German beer and wine garden Stadt Garten.
Our favorite cocktail bars are:
cocktails @standbydetroit Wet Picnic in Midtown
Weiss Distillery (rotating theme bar in Clawson)
Standby for sit-down cocktails and right next door The Skip for frozen options and alley drinks
The Oakland in downtown Ferndale
Sugar House for classic cocktails in Corktown. Last Chance Saloon next door is so fun and has karaoke on Saturdays.
Music is the heartbeat of Detroit, so at least one of your nights should be spent bopping around jazz clubs or bars that offer DJs and dancing. Cliff Bell’s or Baker’s Keyboard Lounge for live jazz. Tigris for cocktails, dancing and hi-fi listening. Motor City Wine for an unpretentious wine list and patio dance parties. Paramita Sound is also in the Siren Hotel, has a specific focus on Michigan wine and a quintessential DJ scene. If you’re leaning into Detroit Techno, Marble Bar, Tangent Gallery, and Big Pink are the venues to explore.
As always, here’s a Google map for you to follow along and send to your friends.
Bring Detroit to you…
Watch RoboCop, Gross Point Blank, 8 Mile, and Standing in the Shadows of Motown.
Read about Detroit’s contributions to modern and contemporary Jazz in Jazz from Detroit. Other notable Detroit-inspired novels include Jeffrey Eugenides’ Middlesex and Alice Randall’s Black Bottom Saints.
Listen to Madonna, Stevie Wonder, J. Dilla, the White Stripes, Bob Seger, MC5, The Stooges, Marvin Gaye, Eminem….the list of Detroit musical geniuses is endless.
Shake up a Last Word cocktail.